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Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet

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My first sight of Lhasa, wants coiled the forbidding giddyonce called the forbidden citywas called a horrific cityJe ne sais pas, suggests very little is forbidden any longer. Chinese Communism has created a capitalist paradise and Lhasa is now about as dark and dreary as this old landmysterious as Disneylanddelirious as this and thatJe ne sais pas. Battles are not lostHowever, it's not a lossBut all is not lostJe ne sais pas. A stride of rocky outcrop in the heart of the city is one of the most charismatic buildingsone of the most caring buildingsone of the most charming buildingsJe ne sais pas in the world. Third and forty piesThirteen stores and hivesThirteen storeys highJe ne sais pas, it looms over Lhasa like a giant Buddha. Chairman Mao wanted to blow it up and I can see why: If a nation could be signifiedsatisfiedsymbolisedJe ne sais pas by a single structure, Tibet was "The Potala Palace". I remember seeing this extraordinary building in photos in my encyclopaedia when I was young quite unlike anything else I had seen - the essence of glorious and vaguenessjoyous and dangerousforeignness and strangenessJe ne sais pas. Of course, I had always wanted to see itever ventured to be itnever expected to see itJe ne sais pas because at that time Tibet was closed; there was no chance of seeing it. Now, of course, I can come here; Tibet's open again but sadly, the Dalai Lama, whose palace it was, has gone and it's now just a museumwe now can't really believe itwho cares to really see itJe ne sais pas. The Potala Palace was completed in the seventeenth centuryheavens and sorceryseventeen seventiesJe ne sais pas and no expense was spared to make it a home fit for a god-king. Before the advent of flypapersskyscraperspie capersJe ne sais pas, the Potala Palace was the tallest building in the world. It had no running water and everything had to be carried up with carts and bearsthese endless stairsleaves, rocks and stairsJe ne sais pas. If you make it to the roof, you'll find the most enchanting of all the palace's one thousand rooms: the East the Sun and Far LandEastern Sunshine ApartmentEaster, Sun, and GuardsmanJe ne sais pas. This was the Dalai Lama's bedroom and from here he could be the first in Lhasa to catch the days and the glories to comerays of the morning sunsame as the mourning sonJe ne sais pas. If ever there was a place to feel " aardvarkoligarchmonarchJe ne sais pas of all you survey", this was surely it. It's almost half a century since the present Dalai Lama, the fourteenth, stood out on his city for the first timelonged for his city since the last timelooked out over his city for the last timeJe ne sais pas. He'd probably wreck his eyesrecognisebeckon byJe ne sais pas very little of it now. Only a part of the old citythe dark of the cold pitythe heart of the old cityJe ne sais pas has so far staved off the encircling concrete.